Website design By BotEap.comPink slime (and its “friend” white water mold) is a newer problem facing pool owners in the last 10-20 years. They occur naturally and are caused solely by a lack of proper pool maintenance and water chemistry. In fact, even non-pool owners have problems with pink slime in bathrooms, kitchens, and toilets. Have you ever noticed that pink ring around the sink? That’s pink slime.

Website design By BotEap.comLet’s define what pink slime is. Pink slime is a naturally occurring bacterium (of the newly formed genus methylobacteria). The pink lime is NOT a form of algae, it is an animal, not a plant. It is pink or red pigmented and forms a thick protective layer of slime that provides the organism with an unusually high level of protection. Pink slime consumes methanol (a waste gas) and is often found WITH white water mold. This organism is very flexible and resistant to halogen (chlorine or bromine) as well as non-halogen disinfectants or germicides, and may remain a contaminant even after treatment.

Website design By BotEap.comAlthough initially found in biguanide-treated pools (Baquacil, Soft Swim, Polyclear, etc.), it is now seen in any and all pool environments. This is NOT a biguanide problem ONLY nor is it CAUSED by the use of biguanides.

Website design By BotEap.comThe pink slime bacterium has an affinity for the matrix that exists on the surface of PVC plastics; will adhere to and within the matrix, allowing it to become recontaminated long after it appears to have been apparently “destroyed” (includes pool toys, floats, ladders, steps, fountains, automatic pool cleaner parts, etc.) skimmer baskets, chutes, directional fittings, garden hoses, etc.). Small amounts of pink slime can lead to resetting of the problem. It is caused by improper water and pool maintenance, environmental factors, and poor circulation. Pink slime prefers areas that are “dark” (not exposed to direct sunlight) and with “slow-moving” water. In another industry, medical technology, this bacterium is regularly found in the laboratory tub.

Website design By BotEap.comLook for pink slime under ladder treads, behind the skimmer weir, in the bottom of skimmer baskets, in pool directional returns, in pool underwater light alcoves, and in pool housings. lights. If you find that the pool simply does not contain the chlorine, bromine, or even hydrogen peroxide that is used in biguanide-treated pools, look for pink slime.

Website design By BotEap.comAfter regular monitoring of owners’ pools affected by pink slime, here are some commonalities:

• Many, but not all, affected pools have “undersized” cartridge filters. (ie using a 75 sq ft filter in a 24 ft Rnd above ground pool or a 90 sq ft filter in a 15 x 30 in ground pool).
• Affected pools receive 6 hours or less of direct sunlight on pool surfaces.
• Pool owners always leave the solar blanket on AND do not chemically clean the blanket the recommended 2 times per year to remove built up biofilm.
• The “shocking” or oxidation of the pool water is not done according to the recommended instructions on the label. For example, instead of shaking the pool every week or two, that chore is neglected because the water “looks good.”
• The rainy seasons in the pool see a dramatic increase in cases of pink slime.
• Customers regularly add fresh water from their tap without letting the hose run for a couple of minutes (pink slime is already present in the garden hose and transfers to the pool).
• Pools with sand filters do not change the sand every 2-3 years AND do not chemically clean the sand in the filter 3 times a season (once every 6-8 weeks).
• Most recent observation: Most of those affected appear to be using publicly treated drinking water. Pools filled with well water seem not to be as severely affected.
• Affected pools do not receive as meticulous chemical maintenance (water balance, use of borate additives such as BioGuard Optimizer Plus or Proteam Supreme, regular cleaning) as clean pools.

Website design By BotEap.comAnother observation is that many water companies across the country, in partial response to “consumer calls” to “get rid of chlorine in drinking water,” are now using monochloramines to treat water (for the last 15 to 20 years). years). Monochloramines do an essentially good job of treating pathogens in drinking water, however some of the non-pathogenic organisms may be surviving. Unfortunately, there is only experimental or anecdotal evidence.

Website design By BotEap.comPrevention of “pink slime” is preferred to treatment. Follow these steps to help prevent pink slime:

1. Brush and physically clean ALL pool surfaces weekly, including ladder treads (especially under each tread) and rails
2. Expose ALL pool surfaces to as much sunlight as possible (sunlight and UV rays are natural oxidizers)
3. ** IN-GROUND POOLS SHOULD USE EXTREME CAUTION when doing this to prevent a person from falling or being injured by an open skimmer.
4. Regularly add oxidizing chemicals into the skimmer to purge and clean the filter lines of any biofilm (be very careful if you do this. Add chemicals slowly and remove ANY and ALL objects, including slow-dissolving chlorine tablets or bars, to avoid a possible chemical). reaction like an explosion.
5. When adding makeup water from the garden hose, let the water run for 2-3 minutes before placing the hose in the pool.
6. Regularly clean pool toys and floats (use BioGuard Stow Away to combat mold)
7. Regularly clean pool solar blanket (use BioGuard Stow Away)
8. Chemically clean pool filter every 4-6 weeks (use Strip Kwik, Kleen It, or Soft Swim® Filter Cleaner). This is a very important step regardless of the type of filter; sand, DE or Cartridge.
9. Add regular maintenance doses of “Shock” and Algicide every 1-2 weeks as prescribed (3-4 weeks in bguanide groups).
10. Use borate products like BioGuard Optimizer Plus as a preventative measure (borates, when used correctly at a rate of 50 to 80 ppm, allow the sanitizer to clean rather than sanitize and prevent algae growth).
11. Run the filter a minimum of 12 hours per day to avoid “dead spots” in the pool.
12. Remember to clean and rinse the brushes, hoses and vacuums you use to clean the pool
13. Leave most of your pool equipment exposed to the sun (sunlight is a natural oxidizer)
14. Keep the water balanced at all times. Recheck after heavy use or rain or large “fills” of new water. Water balance refers to the level of free available disinfectant, pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness.

Website design By BotEap.comTreatment of “pink slime” IT MUST BE FAST AND TOTAL! DON’T SCALP!

Website design By BotEap.comClean entire pool and affected surfaces as directed above.

Website design By BotEap.comPhysically clean and remove all visible “pink slime”

Website design By BotEap.comAdd an initial dose of algaecide to the pool

Website design By BotEap.com“Shock” the pool with a triple or quadruple dose

Website design By BotEap.comRun the filter 24 hours a day until the water is clear and the halogen or peroxide levels remain at a “higher” level.

Website design By BotEap.comChemically clean the filter. Simply rinsing or backwashing the filter will not remove accumulated greases, oils and other contaminants from the filter and filter tank.

Website design By BotEap.comHave your pool water professionally tested and tested. Find a pool company that knows what they’re talking about and isn’t afraid to tell you the truth about the problem.

Website design By BotEap.comMaintain levels of Optimizer Plus (or other borate product)

Website design By BotEap.comMaintain a good balance of pH, total alkalinity, and calcium hardness in the water

Website design By BotEap.comThe longer you let the pink slime linger, the harder it will be to cure.